Why Rolex’s New 1908 Bracelet Is a Bigger Deal Than You Think

In 2022, Rolex quietly discontinued its line of dress watches, the Cellini line. A year later, they replaced it with something entirely new: the Perpetual 1908, a slim 39mm dress watch in yellow or white gold with either a black or white dial. The 1908 introduced a new time-only movement (the caliber 7140), a display caseback to see it through (historically rare for Rolex) and an overall design that leans heavily into classical watchmaking. 

In 2024, Rolex added a platinum 1908 with an ice-blue guilloché dial. And now in 2025, we have what might be the most significant evolution yet: the 1908 is now available on an all-new, seven-link yellow gold bracelet called the “Settimo.”

Two All-New Bracelets in One Year

It’s hard to overstate how rare this. Rolex rarely introduces brand-new bracelet architectures — for decades, the brand has relied on three core designs: the Jubilee, the Oyster, and the President. This year, they introduced not one but two entirely new bracelets: the flat-link Jubilee on the Land-Dweller, and now the Settimo.

It’s not just a big year for the 1908. It’s a big year for Rolex design and manufacturing. Let’s not forget the manufacturing ramp-up going on behind the scenes.

The Bracelet Itself

The new Settimo bracelet is exclusive (for now) to the yellow gold 1908, available with either a white or black dial. It features a seven-link construction and a thin hidden Crownclasp. The small articulating links create a fluid drape around the wrist. It’s not integrated — there’s a gentle curve to the end link and a gap between the case — but it’s clearly designed with this case in mind.

According to Rolex, the bracelet uses “a special system to attach it to the middle case, for which a patent has been filed.” They haven’t explained exactly what this means, but the construction appears unique. There are small access holes on the underside of the end links for spring bar access (the spring bars appear to be curved with the endlink), but we’ll have to wait to learn more about what exactly this “special system” entails. It’s possible this patent shares some DNA with the integrated bracelet tech found on the new Land-Dweller, which uses ceramic and tungsten carbide-coated components to reduce friction and wear over time. The original patent included language for both integrated and traditional bracelet systems.

Visually, the bracelet has a vintage vibe (I think Ben Clymer called it a grandpa vibe), but its tolerances are unmistakably modern Rolex.

Why This Feels Like a Milestone

Rolex doesn’t make vintage reissues. Instead, the brand evolves slowly, deliberately. That’s why when Rolex introduces something that feels vintage-inspired — like the dial on the Le Mans Daytona or this seven-link bracelet — it stands out.

The 1908 isn’t an Oyster-cased sports watch, nor is it a quirky holdover. This is Rolex’s take on a refined, elegant dress watch for today’s collector. With the Settimo bracelet, the 1908 feels like its own platform . . . on which I’m excited to see some complications added. 

A Quick Note on Wearability

All else about the 1908 remains the same. The movement is still the caliber 7140, visible through a display caseback. The case is still 39mm and 9.5mm thick. The bracelet — also very thin — adds some weight and a bit of flash, but this is still a watch that wears like a proper dress piece.

Who the 1908 Is Really For

On the Settimo bracelet, this is a $35,000 watch. The time-only 1908 is in the same price bracket as entry-level watches from brands like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne. But the customer overlap is smaller than you might think. The 1908 isn’t trying to be a high horology darling — it’s Rolex giving its own collectors a way to go dressy. 

If I had to guess, I’d say this watch (on bracelet) will be fairly hard to buy. Like the earlier versions of the 1908, particularly last year’s platinum version, this bracelet reference isn’t something you’ll see too often in the wild.

Final Thoughts

The 1908 on bracelet is exactly the kind of slow, intentional evolution Rolex is known for. And yet it still managed to surprise us. Two entirely new bracelet designs in the same year is nearly unprecedented for Rolex, and the Settimo bracelet feels like an indication that the brand is investing heavily into the non-Oyster Perpetual collection. If the 1908 wasn’t really on your radar before, this new bracelet might change that.