The Origins of Rolex: Hans Wilsdorf and The Birth of a Legend

Today, Rolex is arguably the most recognized and respected watch brand in the world. I mean, even the CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid, owns multiple Rolexes. While Rolex stands as a giant today, the story of how it all began is one of great entrepreneurial foresight and an unwavering, borderline self-destructive commitment to quality. From its origins in London to its eventual move to Switzerland, Rolex’s journey is as fascinating as the watches it creates.

Hans Wilsdorf: The Man Behind the Brand

Hans Wilsdorf was born in 1881 in Kulmbach, Germany, and by his early twenties, he had already entered the world of timekeeping. He began working for a Swiss watchmaking firm, La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he gained valuable insights into the industry. But Wilsdorf had bigger ambitions. He saw an opportunity to revolutionize the wristwatch market at a time when pocket watches were still the dominant form of personal timekeeping.

In 1905, at just 24 years old, Wilsdorf founded Wilsdorf & Davis in London with his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. The company originally specialized in importing Swiss movements into England, where they would be fitted into high-quality cases. However, Wilsdorf had a vision for something more than just assembling timepieces—he wanted to create watches that were not only elegant but also highly precise and reliable.

The Birth of the Rolex Name

Image Source: Rolex

Wilsdorf knew that his future brand would need a name that was memorable, easy to pronounce in any language, and short enough to fit on a watch dial. In 1908, he registered the name “Rolex,” though the exact origin of the name remains a mystery. Wilsdorf claimed that it was a word he invented that was "easy to say in any language," though some speculate it might have been inspired by the French phrase “horlogerie exquise” (exquisite watchmaking). 

That same year, Wilsdorf officially registered the Rolex brand in Switzerland, marking the beginning of its transformation into the iconic Swiss watchmaker it is today. However, the company’s headquarters remained in London for the time being.

The Early Days of Rolex

Image Source: Rolex

While wristwatches existed before Rolex, they were not considered very reliable timekeepers—particularly compared to pocket watches. Wilsdorf set out to change that. He understood that in order for wristwatches to gain mass appeal, they needed to be just as precise and durable as pocket watches. To achieve this, he turned to Swiss watchmaker Aegler, based in Bienne, which specialized in creating small, accurate movements.

In 1910, a Rolex watch became the first wristwatch in the world to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. Just four years later, in 1914, a Rolex watch received a Class A precision certificate from the prestigious Kew Observatory in England—an honor previously reserved only for marine chronometers. This achievement solidified Rolex's reputation as a leader in precision watchmaking.

The Move to Switzerland

Image Source: Rolex

In 1919, Rolex made a pivotal move that would shape its future. Following the economic challenges in post-World War I Britain—including high taxes and import duties—Wilsdorf relocated Rolex’s headquarters from London to Geneva, Switzerland. Geneva was already renowned for its fine watchmaking, and Wilsdorf saw an opportunity to capitalize on this reputation.

This move was more than just a strategic business decision; it allowed Rolex to further embed itself in the heart of the watchmaking world. By establishing itself in Switzerland, Rolex could collaborate more closely with local suppliers and craftspeople, ensuring the highest quality materials and went into every watch (at some of the lowest costs, relatively speaking.)

The Case Design That Changed Everything: The Oyster

By the 1920s, Rolex had firmly established itself as a pioneer in wristwatch innovation. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, which featured a hermetically sealed case designed to protect the movement from dust, moisture, and pressure (if a small amount at first).

This was a major breakthrough in watchmaking, and Rolex spared no effort in marketing the Oyster’s innovation. As we’d learn in subsequent decades, they’re pretty good at marketing. The most famous example took place in 1927, when Mercedes Gleitze, a British swimmer, wore a Rolex Oyster around her neck during her historic swim across the English Channel. After over 10 hours in the water, the watch emerged in perfect working condition, proving its durability.

This combination of technical achievement and opportunistic marketing became a hallmark of the Rolex brand. Wilsdorf was a master of aligning his products with feats of human endurance, adventure, and exploration—a tradition that continues to this day.

Conclusion

Rolex GMT-Master II On Everest Curved-End Rubber

The introduction of the Oyster case in 1926 was a turning point not just for Rolex, but for the entire watch industry. This waterproof, dustproof design laid the groundwork for the brand's future success and became the foundation upon which every modern Rolex sport model is built (including the one pictured above). From the Submariner to the Explorer, the Oyster case's rock-solid build remains central to Rolex’s identity, continuing Wilsdorf’s legacy with every new model that bears the crown.