Rolex Predictions 2025: Perpetual 1908 Complications, Dials, & Sizes

Rolex doesn’t introduce new model lines often. When they do, it’s a pretty big deal. The Perpetual 1908 debuted in 2023 as Rolex’s answer to the modern dress watch, replacing the long-running Cellini line. The very next year, Rolex introduced the platinum 1908 with an ice blue guilloché dial. It’s a stunning watch, and it proves Rolex is willing to expand the new 1908 collection—but how far will they take it?

Is the Perpetual 1908 Ready for Complications?

Adding a complication to the 1908 isn’t a stretch—it’s the natural next step. The Cellini Moonphase (ref. 50535) set the precedent when it launched in 2017 (three years after the modern Cellini redesign). That was the first time Rolex produced a moonphase since the 1950s. If Rolex went through the trouble to launch the 1908 (an incredibly similar watch to the modern Cellini), they’ll likely go through with some complications as well.

A moonphase feels like the most likely first addition. Rolex already has the technical foundation from the Cellini, and the complication aligns with the 1908’s elegant, classical aesthetic. The Cellini Moonphase came with a pointer date complication: a plausible outcome for a 1908 Moonphase. However, in 2020, Rolex filed a patent for a Grande Date complication similar to that on the A. Lange & Sohne Lange One or the Patek Philippe Cubitus. We could see the first ever Rolex Grande Date on the 1908.

Image Source: Rolex

A dual-time 1908 is another possibility. Rolex already experimented with a dual-time Cellini (ref. 50529), which featured a second hour and minute hand on a 6 o’clock subdial. While not a traditional GMT, it was an interesting and practical take on the complication.

If Rolex really wants to flex its high watchmaking capabilities, a triple or perpetual calendar would be the way to do it. The Rolex Sky-Dweller features the brand’s only current complex calendar movement, which has a unique ‘Saros’ display not consistent with the 1908’s vintage aesthetic. A traditional day and month display at 12 o’clock with a moonphase at 6 would be a natural fit for the layout.

What About Case Sizes?

Right now, the 1908 is only available in 39mm, which, by dress watch standards, is large. Rolex is no longer a stranger to size variety within a given model—just look at the Explorer, which is now available in both 36mm and 40mm. A 36mm 1908 would make a lot of sense for an elegant dress watch. A sub-36mm case could also be in play, catering to collectors looking for something truly traditional (or a dedicated women’s version, a category that Rolex could certainly expand).

Will Rolex Jump on the Stone Dial Trend?

Image Source: Monochrome Watches

A stone dial 1908 has been a popular prediction, but I wouldn’t count on it—at least not yet.

Stone dials have made a huge comeback in recent years, fueled by a renewed interest in vintage pieces (Rolex, Piaget, Vacheron) with lapis, onyx, malachite, and tiger’s eye dials. The trend has spread across all price points, with brands like Toledano & Chan, Berneron, Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, and Bulova releasing stone dial watches. Rolex, on the other hand, doesn’t follow trends.

Image Source: Rolex

If Rolex planned a stone dial 1908 ten years ago, maybe we'll see one. But if the idea is a reaction to the recent surge in stone dial popularity, it won’t happen anytime soon. More likely, Rolex will continue to refine the 1908 with textured or guilloché dials, much like they did with last year’s platinum release.

Where Does Rolex Take the 1908 Next?

The Perpetual 1908 is still finding its footing. The initial excitement has cooled, but Rolex isn’t done with it yet. A complication of some sort feels inevitable. A moonphase feels like the safest bet, but a dual-time or even a full calendar would elevate the 1908 beyond anything Rolex has done in decades.

Whether we see something at Watches & Wonders 2025 or years down the line, the 1908 isn’t going anywhere. Rolex is playing the long game, and that means there’s plenty more to come.

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