Rolex Oyster vs. Jubilee Bracelets: Which is the Best Choice for You?

Bracelets are more than mere accessories; they’re integral to the identities of the watches they’re attached to. Rolex offers quite a few bracelets these days, but the decades-old binary still remains: Oyster or Jubilee? With both options available on the Datejust, GMT-Master II, and Sky-Dweller, I’d like to delve into the history and nuances of these two iconic bracelets, focusing on their suitability with those models.

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

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Throughout the 1930s and ‘40s, Rolex partnered exclusively with Gay Frères to produce their Bonklip bracelets (a very popular bracelet style at the time, one that’s seeing somewhat of a comeback). This partnership led the brands to develop the Oyster bracelet in the mid-late 1940s. The three-link design was patented in 1947 and launched in 1948. 

Today, the Oyster bracelet is synonymous with Rolex. Its three-link profile is instantly recognizable and offers a robust structure that’s ideal for hard-wearing tool watches. Over the years, the design has evolved to feature curved endlinks, solid endlinks, and various different taper proportions, but the core identity remains the same.

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For the GMT-Master II, the Oyster’s rugged look complements the watch’s origins as a pilot’s tool. Personally, I think the Oyster really fits the GMT’s tool-watch vibe—after all, this is the bracelet that was paired with the first GMT-Master 6542s. The brushed finish on the steel Oyster adds to this utilitarian feel, which many collectors appreciate. However, I think it’s undeniable that the GMT-Master II’s modern flourishes—like the ceramic bezel insert and glossy dial—can also be complemented beautifully by the Jubilee bracelet. More on that later.

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As for the Sky-Dweller, a watch that offers dual-time functionality like the GMT but with a more complex annual calendar movement, the Oyster works just as well. Because the Sky-Dweller is only offered in precious metals, its Oyster bracelet features polished center links that give it a dressier touch. It’s a versatile bracelet for a versatile watch, but as I’ll explain in the Jubilee section, I personally feel that the Sky-Dweller hits its stride when paired with the Jubilee.

Finally, we have the Datejust. This one is a bit more divisive than the prior two. For me, the bracelet choice comes down to the bezel choice. If you opt for a smooth bezel on your Datejust, I think the Oyster bracelet makes sense. The combination of the clean, polished bezel with the broad three-link design gives the watch a more understated look, perfect for daily wear. If you opt for a fluted bezel, which I’d recommend if you’re buying a Datejust, go ahead and throw it on the classic Jubilee. Yes it’s flashy, and yes, it’s perfect.

The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

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In contrast to the decidedly-utilitarian Oyster, the Jubilee bracelet is all about elegance. Introduced in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Rolex, the Jubilee debuted on the Datejust and has since become a staple of the brand’s dressier models. Its five-link construction—three smaller polished links in the center flanked by two larger brushed ones—gives it a more intricate, delicate appearance while of course maintaining the durability you’d expect from a Rolex.

Image Source: Hodinkee

The Datejust and the Jubilee are a match made in heaven. If you’re going for the fluted bezel version of the Datejust, I’d argue that the Jubilee is a requirement. The two just seem to belong together, both in terms of history and design. The fluted bezel adds texture that continues seamlessly onto the Jubilee’s fine polished center links. It’s a classic look that screams Rolex, and while some may prefer the Oyster’s simplicity, for me, the Jubilee on a Datejust feels quintessential.

For the GMT-Master II, the Jubilee brings a touch of adornment to what is otherwise a rugged tool watch. This is nothing new–the GMT-Master was the first Rolex watch to be offered on both the Oyster and Jubilee, from what I understand beginning with the reference 1675 (feel free to correct me in the comments). This is where personal preference really comes into play. The modern GMT-Master II, with its ceramic bezel and glossy dial, can easily shift between sporty and dressy, and the Jubilee bracelet leans into the latter. The polished middle links seem to elevate every other polished surface on the watch (down to the dial furniture), making it a great choice for those who want their GMT to feel a bit more upscale. 

Image Source: Rolex

Finally, the Sky-Dweller on Jubilee is, in my opinion, the best pairing for the model. With its fluted bezel and polished case, the Sky-Dweller already has a dressier appearance compared to the GMT-Master II. When you add a Jubilee into the mix, the watch feels like you should be wearing gloves to pick it up. That’s not to say the Sky-Dweller doesn’t look great on an Oyster—it certainly does—but for me, the Jubilee bracelet really complements the watch’s decorative design.

Final Thoughts

The choice between Oyster and Jubilee comes down to how you want your watch to feel on the wrist and how you plan to wear it. The Oyster is perfect for those who prioritize simplicity and functionality, especially on models like the GMT-Master II. On the other hand, the Jubilee’s slightly more opulent look is a natural fit for the Datejust and Sky-Dweller, offering an elevated appearance that feels more dressed up.