Has Tudor Buried The Flag? (North Flag Retrospective)

At Baselworld 2015, Tudor introduced . . . a trio of colorful Fastrider Chronographs. But that’s not what we’re here to talk about. In 2015, Tudor also introduced the North Flag (above, center): a decidedly modern, angular, integrated bracelet watch with vibrant yellow accents. Importantly, the North Flag debuted Tudor’s first in-house movement, the caliber MT5621.

Despite its appeal (more on that in a bit), the North Flag didn’t have the staying power of a Black Bay or a Pelagos; it was discontinued in 2021. Why did this happen? You could point to any number of reasons, but here are a few. The watch’s primary inspiration — the ‘70’s Tudor Ranger II ref. 9111 (above, left) — is a bit of a deep-cut niche favorite, unlike the iconic Submariner that inspired the Black Bay and Pelagos. To that point, the North Flag ditched the 'Ranger (II)' name, instead honoring the British North Greenland Expedition of 1952-1954: a significant expedition, but not a particularly well-known one. Finally, one of the North Flag’s biggest selling points was its new in-house caliber MT5621, but at the very same Baselworld, Tudor updated the Pelagos with the same movement. 

Image Source: Hodinkee

We could talk about the North Flag’s release strategy and reception all day, but ultimately, it’s a goner. Among enthusiasts, you’ll hear it referred to as “overlooked”, “forgotten”, and/or “underappreciated”. Fans of the North Flag say it has “untapped potential”: that it was “ahead of its time," referring to a revived interest in steel integrated luxury sports watches. I largely agree with this sentiment. The North Flag is a cool watch and I’d love to see a modern version. But what might that look like? Will it ever happen? Or has Tudor buried the Flag?

Why We Love The Tudor North Flag

Tudor’s mission statement, dating back to the 1920s, has always been to offer well-built watches at an affordable price point relative to Rolex. For decades, this meant pairing cost-effective movements with Rolex cases and bracelets. Since 2012, it has largely manifested in the form of the Black Bay and Pelagos—Tudor’s Yin and Yang with Submariner-inspired designs that lean into heritage and modernity, respectively.

I love the North Flag for the same reason I love the Pelagos (in its many forms): it’s a modern take on a historic design that has no direct parallel to a Rolex watch. The North Flag pulls elements from the quirky Tudor Ranger II – integrated steel construction, Explorer-like numerals, distinctive handset – and presents them in a refined modern package unlike anything you'll find from the Crown.

The North Flag measures 40mm in diameter, 50mm lug to lug, and 13.3mm thick. It has a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance. The caliber MT5621 has a silicon hairspring, full balance bridge, and 70 hours of power reserve, as displayed at 9 o’clock on the dial. The bezel is surrounded by a beveled black ceramic ring.

Image Source: Time and Tide

The North Flag wears quite nicely. As with most integrated bracelet watches, you should take its diameter measurement with a grain of salt. Although it’s only 40mm across, those female endlinks span 50mm north to south. However, the downturned lugs and free-hinging center links (that can drape straight down) offer a bit of forgiveness for smaller wrists. Still, when viewed from the side, the exhibition caseback hangs lower than the lugs’ lowest point: something I’d love to see amended in a modern version.

A New North Flag (Perhaps With an Old Name)

Before discussing the likelihood of a North Flag comeback, let’s talk about what it might look. A movement upgrade is inevitable, probably to something like the MT5602-U with Master Chronometer certification. Of course, this depends on when the watch would be released and if it were to have any additional complications. A new North Flag would also likely have a T-fit clasp: a particularly intriguing addition to the integrated bracelet. 

I‘m curious about how Tudor would approach this watch’s sizing. If the Heritage Ranger/2022 Ranger is any indication, a new North Flag might fall below 40mm. Regardless of diameter, I’d expect a slimmer case profile.

Here’s where things get fun. In his 2019 video on the Tudor North Flag, industrial designer and Youtuber IDGuy says that the North Flag “deserves to have more added to it . . . it has an excellent design language to work with, so why not make it all the more competent as an adventurous tool?” I couldn’t agree more.

Renderings made by IDGuy

IDGuy offers the above mockups: moving the power reserve indicator from 9 o’clock, adding a ‘9’ numeral, enlarging and framing the date window, adding crown guards, and potentially adding a skeletonized 24-hour hand. I love these amended North Flag designs, so much so that I made my own. 

I feel that a revived North Flag should use the ‘Ranger II’ name. Like the Pelagos and Black Bay, Tudor (smartly) aimed to distinguish the North Flag from its inspiration, but I think the 'Ranger II' categorization makes more sense today. With its 2022 refresh, the Ranger feels like a staple in Tudor’s catalog going forward (I mean, the thing even has T-fit). The Ranger II could benefit from this congruity, slotting in as a related-but-individual sibling of the simple Ranger. I don’t know – it's an idea worth exploring.

I copied IDGuy’s additions of a 9 o’clock numeral and crown guards; the former is a nod to the Ranger II ref. 9111 and the latter just feels right on an ultra-modern sports watch. I moved the power reserve indicator to the center hand stack, but removed it entirely on the rightmost mockup (I have no strong feelings about the power reserve indicator). I also framed the date window to match the hands and indices.

I skipped the 24-hour hand in favor of a rotating 12-hour bezel (don’t zoom in on the knurling – I tried my best). This is a simple and interactive way to track a second time zone, plus I like the way it looks compared to the North Flag’s fixed ceramic-ringed bezel. Finally, I changed the vibrant yellow accents to a familiar orange, again honoring the Ranger II.

These are just a few ideas for a potential North Flag revival. As IDGuy said in the aforementioned video, “that is the joy of design: throwing ideas around and seeing if something will stick.” We'd love to hear your ideas, as well.

Has Tudor Buried the Flag?

Image Source: Analog:Shift

Yes, they quite literally have. The North Flag is a thing of the past, but that doesn’t mean it won't be reinterpreted in the future. At the moment, Tudor appears to be prioritizing sports partnerships and experimenting with the Pelagos line. I love this direction because, again, it leans into individuality and distinction from Rolex, all at an attractive price point. However, as it stands today, Tudor's catalog might not be ripe for a new North Flag or Ranger II.

What do you think of the North Flag? Would you like to see it come back? What would you include in a refreshed design? Let us know in the comments below and if you’re interested in customizing your Rolex or Tudor, check out our selection of integrated straps fit for particular references.