Hands-On With the Fleux FLX001

Just when I thought the world was done with vintage-inspired dive watches which were all the rage two years ago, and of which we saw too many, I got my hands on the Fleux FLX001. One of the two versions of the first model from a brand created barely a year ago and which heralds from Canada. Well, I realized, when taking a closer look at it, that the world was waiting for yet another vintage diver, more precisely a skin diver, and even more specifically, the FLX. Unlike many retro-looking underwater timekeeping devices, the Fleux FLX001 not only looks vintage, but it also feels vintage and that’s something I’m so glad to see exist. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the Fleux FLX001. 

What Makes the Fleux FLX001 Vintage 

There are different ways to define “vintage”. In the case of the Fleux FLX001, "vintage" is defined by the fact that the watch borrows visual cues from a specific time-period—the Golden Era of the 1960s/70s—as well as elements of the way it operates and feels on the wrist. When looking at the FLX001, the first element that jumps out to me is the copper-colored lume used on the hour markers and hands, as well as on the text printed on the dial. It doesn’t look like fauxtina, but more like old radium as if the watch was New Old Stock (NOS) (as if it was found in the basement of a defunct Swiss brand: something that does happen from time to time).

Besides the lume, I appreciate the fact that all hour markers are painted and not applied, and that the plongeur-style hands are proportionate to them. The gilt-colored minute track reminds me of many vintage skin-divers and of the first Rolex Submariner references. Furthermore, the case has a period-correct profile (more on that below) and it is paired with a friction-fit bezel like the old school divers. Did you know, by the way, that if you were to conduct underwater covert ops, you would want this type of bezel instead of a click-bezel? It's true: friction-fit bezels do not make sound. Click bezels are audible and their sound is amplified under water. 

The Specifications of the Fleux FLX001 

Although its design may have been inspired by skin divers made several decades ago, the Fleux FLX001 is a proper diver that comes with a suite of modern great specs. Starting with the movement powering this model, the robust and reliable Seiko NH38A which beats at 3Hz and has 41 hours of power reserve. Lume is plentiful as you can see from the lume shot below, and is of the C3 “Old Radium” variety made by SuperLuminova. Fleux really was generous with the lume application here. Furthermore, the crystal is a piece of double domed plexiglass which is less scratch resistant than sapphire but more resistant to shocks. Lastly, with a screw-down crown and bezel, the Fleux FLX001 comes with 200 meters of water resistance. 

Wearing Experience 

The other element that contributes to making the FLX001 feel vintage on the wrist are its dimensions and the way the case was designed. The watch measures 38mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 14mm thick, and has a 20mm lug width. These are agreed-upon, universally-great dimensions for a diver which guarantees it will fit many wrists. Furthermore, the way the case is designed also helps in the wearing comfort. Indeed, the FLX001 has a thin mid-case complete with short lugs that turn down towards the wrist. This means the watch sits flat on the wrist and feels rather compact. It’s one of the few divers that I wear these days as it fits my 6.25”/16cm wrist quite well. 

Final Thoughts 

Let’s face it, there is no shortage of vintage-inspired divers today. So one has to really like the design in order to want to pull the trigger, as well as find satisfaction in comparing the specs and the price tag. In this case, the FLX001 retails for $499 which is arguably a steal given how nice it looks and how well it’s made. Beyond looking the part for a vintage-inspired skin diver, it’s also solidly built. If you are like me and enjoy watches that look both classic and different—slightly quirky even given the asymmetrical dial—then you will like the Fleux FLX001.