Why the white dial Oyster Perpetual may be a future classic

In the episode of Hodinkee’s Talking Watches featuring author Gary Shyengart, he speaks of his 39mm white dial Rolex Oyster Perpetual as an understated watch that reveals layers over time. Hodinkee wrote of Shyengart’s choice: “It doesn't try to create any particular impression – in fact it doesn't try to create any impression at all, and in the theme of his collecting, which is to find watches that have both a certain purity and that don't wear you when you're trying to wear them, this is, in modern watches, about as good as it gets.”

Photo by @dtimepieces

In another article in Hodinkee, Stephen Pulvirent chooses the white OP39 as the one watch he could wear forever if he were to be relegated to a single watch collection. He concluded: “It's sleek, it's utilitarian, and it's flat-out handsome. I could wear this to the office, on a weekend hike, and to a friend's wedding and it would be equally at home everywhere. In fact, the prospect of wearing just this one watch is actually rather tempting…”

But what makes all of this praise interesting from an industry standpoint is that Rolex decided to discontinue the Oyster Perpetual in its 39mm format and in 2020 created an 41mm version in its place. The closest watch to the 39mm white dial OP is the silver dial 41mm and 36mm Oyster Perpetual that differs not only in case size, but also has double baton markers at the 3, 6 and 9 positions and the markers and hands are now in gold. 

Photo by @orologiotimepieces

At the end of the day, silver is simply not white, and the Oyster Perpetual’s white dial is a soft egg-shell white that stands out from other white dial Rolex watches such as the “Polar” Explorer II, which features a pure white dial, which has its own beauty.

The effect of the softer Oyster Perpetual white dial is that it takes on different characteristics under various lighting conditions. Shyengart noted that he posted a shot of him in an ice cream store in Miami wearing the watch on Instagram and once commented asked if he had acquired a salmon dial model.

You may ask what is the point of waxing poetic about the white dial OP if it has been discontinued. We’re here to point out there are still many solid alternatives in the marketplace if you are seeking a highly wearable and versatile white dial watch.

Photo by Hodinkee

Of course we will start in our own stable. The MONTA Noble and Atlas both come in an opaline dial that offers a similar chameleon-esque look in that the watch looks very different as it moves from different environments. Both watches are 38.5mm and come with MONTA’s ultra-adjustable bracelet with three micro-adjustment slots on the clasp and an on-the-fly adjustable clasp so you can dial in the perfect fit.

Photo by Hodinkee

The Omega Globemaster Master Chronometer offers a 39mm case and white dial and a highly accurate and anti-magnetic movement. The remarkable 8900 movement from Omega also offers an independently adjustable hour hand for easy transitions when traveling between time zones. 

Photo by NOMOS

For smaller wrists, the NOMOS Club 701 has an off-white dial that is perfect for the minimalist. The 36mm case watch is a manual winder and comes with a well-made Horween leather strap that we’ve had good experiences with.

If you are looking for an alternative to the stock bracelet for your Oyster Perpetual 39, check out our options here.