What Was The First Rolex Explorer II? History of the Reference 1655

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, launched in 1971, was designed with a very specific audience in mind: spelunkers and adventurers who needed a 24-hour tool watch. Unlike many of Rolex’s other tool watches, which were crafted for divers, pilots, or sailors, the Explorer II 1655 was built to serve those navigating in darkness—where day and night became indistinguishable. In the early ‘70s, the 1655 was seen as a departure from the traditional professional Rolex aesthetic while building on the foundations of the original Explorer.

The Original Rolex Explorer’s Roots

Image Source: Hodinkee

Before diving into the Explorer II 1655, it’s important to understand the model’s roots in the original Rolex Explorer. The first Explorer, launched in 1953, was directly inspired by Rolex’s involvement in the first successful ascent of Mount Everest that same year. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay famously wore Oyster Perpetual watches during their climb. The Explorer was released as a tribute to this expedition; it was truly designed for those pushing the limits of exploration.

However, while the Explorer was ideal for mountaineers, the reference 1655 was engineered for a different kind of extreme environment. Rolex identified the need for a watch that could be used in the total darkness of caves or deep expeditions where losing track of time could pose significant challenges. The Explorer II ref. 1655 was born from this need, and it came with several unique features that set it apart from its predecessor(s).

The Distinctive Design of the Explorer II 1655

Image Source: Meticulist

Immediately, you’ll notice the bright orange 24-hour hand. In tandem with the fixed 24-hour scale bezel, this hand enables the wearer to distinguish between day and night. In environments like caves, where sunlight is nonexistent, this extra hand was crucial for tracking time across a full 24-hour period.

The dial of the Explorer II 1655 is another distinct element. It features an abundance of luminous material on the indices and hands to ensure maximum legibility in low-light environments. Today, the tritium lume on these 1655s has aged and patinated, with each example taking on a unique appearance. The dial design is busy compared to other Rolex models of the time, with bold lumed indices taking on various shapes, sizes, and positions, scattered along a highly legible seconds track.

“Lollipop” seconds hand (left) and “straight” seconds hand (right). Image Sources: S.Song Watches

Speaking of the seconds hand, several variants exist among different production years of the 1655. Collectors often note the different styles of seconds hands as key identifiers for early or late examples of the model. Early variants feature a “straight” seconds hand, while later models have a seconds hand with a small luminous-filled circle, often referred to as a “lollipop” hand. These subtle differences are crucial in identifying different production runs and are a key interest for vintage collectors.

Side note: the first time I saw an Explorer II in person, it was on the wrist of author and photographer Kristian Haagen. I didn’t know it at the time, but his example had a lollipop seconds hand. I later saw an early straight seconds hand version at a local Redbar meetup (pictured above). 

The 1655’s Movement and Functionality

Inside the Explorer II 1655 is Rolex’s automatic caliber 1575 movement, a reliable workhorse that powered many Rolex date models during this era. 

Image Source: Bob’s Watches

Despite being designed for such an interesting vocation, dare I say as cool as diving, the Explorer II 1655 never quite reached the same level of popularity as some of its Rolex siblings. It was produced until 1984, making it one of the longer-running references, yet it flew somewhat under the radar for much of its production life. However, in recent years, the reference 1655 has gained a resurgence in interest, particularly among vintage Rolex collectors. Auction results often fetch north of $30,000; the number of unpolished or otherwise good condition examples are few and far between.

Variants and Collector Interest

Image Source: Watch Collectors

Throughout its production run, the Explorer II 1655 underwent a few subtle changes. Beyond the aforementioned seconds hand variations, small details like font changes on the bezel and dial can help identify specific production periods. These differences have become massively important to collectors, as we see with most every vintage Rolex model. Additionally, early 1655 models feature a dial with a slightly different layout, making them more desirable.

Collectors often refer to the 1655 as the “Steve McQueen” Explorer, although to my knowledge, there’s no evidence that McQueen ever wore one. Nonetheless, the nickname has stuck, adding a layer of mystique to this already fascinating reference.

Conclusion

Image Source: The Watch Club 

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 is undoubtedly one of the most niche tool watches in Rolex’s history. Designed for extreme environments where tracking 24-hour time is crucial, the watch’s bold legibility-focused design made it a reliable companion for spelunkers and watch nerds alike. Though it may not have had the widespread appeal of other Rolex models during its original production run, the 1655 has certainly earned it a place among the most sought-after vintage Rolex watches today. I know I want one. 

But what do you think of the Explorer II 1655? Let us know in the comments below, and if you’re interested in customizing your Rolex (including but not limited to the Explorer II), check out our selection of curved end straps for Rolex watches.