How Tudor Successfully Set Itself Apart From Rolex

For decades, Tudor was seen as Rolex’s little sibling—offering similar aesthetics but at a lower price point, using off-the-shelf ETA movements and Rolex-supplied cases, bracelets, and crowns. Tudor was a compelling entry-level option for those seeking the Rolex look without the Rolex price tag. However, this approach couldn’t sustain the brand forever. By the late 1990s, Tudor found itself at a crossroads. It had become clear that the shared DNA between Tudor and Rolex was causing market cannibalization, especially in the US and UK, where customers were left wondering why they should spend six times more on a Rolex when Tudor offered something visually similar for a fraction of the price.

Image Source: Analog Shift

The shift started when Rolex began using 904L stainless steel in the mid-1980s. This material, known for its high corrosion resistance, was a major upgrade—but Tudor didn’t follow suit. Instead, this marked the beginning of a gradual separation between the two brands. By the turn of the century, Tudor had stopped using Rolex parts entirely, and the iconic Tudor Submariner was discontinued. The message was clear: Tudor needed to redefine its identity if it was going to survive, especially after pulling out of the US and UK markets around the same time.

Reinventing Tudor: A New (Yet Familiar) Identity

Image Source: Professional Watches

Faced with the challenge of distinguishing itself from its parent brand, Tudor made a strategic decision: it would carve out its own niche by embracing unique designs, innovative materials, and a more experimental spirit. The modern era of Tudor began in 2010 with the introduction of the Heritage Chrono, which paid homage to one of the brand’s most standout individual designs. This was the first sign that Tudor was willing to embrace a bolder, more distinct aesthetic.

A key component of this new identity was Tudor’s willingness to experiment with materials that Rolex avoided at the time. While Rolex continued to focus on traditional luxury metals like steel, gold, and platinum, Tudor ventured into the use of titanium, ceramic, and even carbon composite. The 2012 release of the all-titanium Pelagos was a perfect example. It was a full titanium dive watch at a time when Rolex hadn’t yet offered the material, showcasing Tudor’s freedom to innovate.

The Testing Grounds for Rolex?

It’s no secret that Tudor is often thought of as the “testing grounds” for Rolex. The Pelagos line, again, is a clear example. The all-titanium Pelagos debuted a full decade before Rolex introduced its first full-titanium watch, the Deepsea Challenge in 2022. Now, the titanium Rolex Yacht-Master (pictured above, right) is one of the most sought-after Rolex sport watches . . . and Tudor did it 10 years prior. This gap illustrates how Tudor has been able to take risks and try out new ideas before they are incorporated into Rolex’s lineup, if at all. Tudor’s ability to be the more adventurous sibling has made it a favorite among collectors who appreciate experimentation all at a lower price point than The Crown.

A Personal Experience: The FXD Collection

During a recent visit to Clarkson Jewelers in St. Louis, I had the chance to spend time with several Tudor models, including the new Master Chronometer Black Bay and the Pelagos FXD Cycling Edition—a carbon composite chronograph with titanium hardware. Despite having previously spent time with the Pelagos FXD Alinghi Racing – another carbon composite, fixed-lug Tudor chronograph – I found the Cycling Edition to be an entirely different offering. The lack of a rotating dive/countdown bezel gave it a unique feel, even though it still featured signature Tudor elements like the snowflake hour hand and the shield logo at 12 o’clock. It felt like a fresh take within the ever-expanding FXD collection—a collection that in and of itself feels completely detached from Rolex, with its own distinct identity and design language.

Tudor Pelagos FXDs on Everest 22mm Nylon Straps

This experience highlighted something significant: Tudor’s ability to create something entirely new under its own umbrella. The FXD line feels like an exploration of what modern tool watches can be, beyond the traditional confines of just diving or exploration models. It’s a sign that Tudor has successfully broken away from its origins as the “budget Rolex” and has created its own appeal. In today’s market, Tudor stands on its own two feet with innovative creations and novel concepts.

The Result: A Brand That Stands on Its Own

Tudor’s strategy of differentiating itself from Rolex has paid off. By embracing design choices, materials, and collaborations that Rolex does not, Tudor has managed to carve out a distinct identity that resonates with longtime collectors and newcomers alike. The brand’s modern catalog is a far cry from what it looked like in decades past. Today, a Tudor watch is instantly recognizable all on its own.

What do you think of Tudor’s recent direction? What’s your favorite watch in their current collection? Let us know in the comments below, and if you're interested in customizing your Tudor (or Rolex), check out our selection of curved-end (integrated) straps for various models.